Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design
Introduction. Thanks to a rapid advancement of technology, the clothing industry is rapidly developing into a high-tech and capital-intensive production. This contributes to a high quality of design, pattern cutting, and manufacture. The industry is one of the fastest growing in the manufacture se...
Gespeichert in:
| Datum: | 2019 |
|---|---|
| Hauptverfasser: | , , |
| Format: | Artikel |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Видавничий дім "Академперіодика" НАН України
2019
|
| Schriftenreihe: | Наука та інновації |
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online Zugang: | https://nasplib.isofts.kiev.ua/handle/123456789/174027 |
| Tags: |
Tag hinzufügen
Keine Tags, Fügen Sie den ersten Tag hinzu!
|
| Назва журналу: | Digital Library of Periodicals of National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine |
| Zitieren: | Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design / T.I. Zhylenko, A.M. Kudryavtsev, O.V. Zakharkevich // Наука та інновації. — 2019. — Т. 15, № 3. — С. 24-34. — Бібліогр.: 16 назв. — англ. |
Institution
Digital Library of Periodicals of National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine| id |
nasplib_isofts_kiev_ua-123456789-174027 |
|---|---|
| record_format |
dspace |
| spelling |
nasplib_isofts_kiev_ua-123456789-1740272025-02-09T14:01:10Z Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design Мобільний додаток для обчислення параметрів базової конструкції плечового одягу Мобильное приложение для расчета параметров базовой конструкции плечевой одежды Zhylenko, T.I. Kudryavtsev, A.M. Zakharkevich, O.V. Наукові основи інноваційної діяльності Introduction. Thanks to a rapid advancement of technology, the clothing industry is rapidly developing into a high-tech and capital-intensive production. This contributes to a high quality of design, pattern cutting, and manufacture. The industry is one of the fastest growing in the manufacture sector. Therefore, it is extremely important to enable industry professionals and researchers to keep pace with changes to achieve the desired competitiveness of products. Mobile applications for the garment industry (Stylebook, Cloth, Polyvore, etc.) have been analyzed. These applications contain galleries of clothing models, but only for specific styles of fashion and unrecognizable sizes. Therefore, they can be used as a guide for creating clothes of similar fashion styles but without the necessary level of accuracy. Problem Statement. Mobile applications that are now available for use in the clothing industry are oriented towards the sale of finished products. Since the design and manufacturing stages are provided with software products only at the "home" level, there is a need for the development of mobile applications for clothing industry experts. To develop such an application, it is advisable to choose a design methodology that is both simple, accessible, and known to a wide range of users. Purpose. To develop a mobile application for calculating the parameters of the main blocks of clothing. Materials and Methods. To create our application, an advanced and convenient programming language Kotlin has been used. Results. Based on the comparative analysis of the means of calculating the basic clothing designs, the expediency of using mobile applications in the garment industry has been proved. The existing mobile applications that are used or can be used in the design and manufacture of clothing have been classified. The quantitative classification analysis has confirmed the original hypothesis on the lack of mobile applications used while making a typical basic design. To calculate the parameters of the basic design of top wear, a mobile application has been developed. It provides support for the automated process of creating clothes designs, both in individual or small-scale production, as well as in the learning process. Conclusions. The developed package enables making specific drawings for top wear of any size. The user gets the coordinates of basic design for making patterns for mass production or for individual pattern cutting. Вступ. На сьогодні швейна промисловість стрімко перетворюється на високотехнологічну, капіталомістку інду- стрію завдяки сучасним досягненням технології, що сприяє високій якості проектування, розкрою та виготовлення одягу. Розвиток цієї галузі у виробничому секторі є досить інтенсивним, тому надзвичайно важливим є забезпечення відповідних фахівців та дослідників сучасними технологічними розробками для створення конкурентоздатної продукції. Одним із засобів, що дозволяють залучити нових споживачів продукції, які орієнтовані на технології та живуть в режимі он-лайн, є мобільний сервіс (мобільні додатки) Stylebook, Cloth, Polyvore та інші. Проте зазначені програми містять переважно галереї моделей одягу або конструкції для певних моделей одягу, які зазвичай не мають чітко вказаних розмірів. Постановка проблеми. Мобільні додатки, які сьогодні доступні для використання у швейній галузі, зорієнтовано на збут уже готової продукції. В той час, як етапи проектування та виготовлення забезпечені програмними продуктами лише на «домашньому» рівні, існує потреба в розробці мобільних додатків, що будуть спрямовані на використання саме фахівцями швейної галузі. Для розробки зазначеного додатку доцільно обирати методику конструювання, яка є водночас простою, доступною і відомою для широкого кола користувачів. Мета. Розробка мобільного додатку для розрахунку параметрів основних деталей плечового одягу. Матеріали й методи. Розробку програми виконано у операційній системі Android з використанням сучасної та зручної мови програмування Котлін. Результати. Шляхом порівняльного аналізу засобів розрахунку базових конструкцій одягу доведено доцільність використання мобільних додатків у швейному виробництві. Розроблено класифікацію наявних мобільних додатків, що використовуються або можуть бути використані у процесах конструювання та виготовлення одягу. Кількісний аналіз класифікації підтвердив вихідну гіпотезу щодо відсутності мобільних додатків, які використовуються на етапі побудови типової базової конструкції. Для розрахунку параметрів базової конструкції плечового одягу було розроблено програму мобільного додатку, який забезпечує підтримку автоматизованого процесу створення конструкцій одягу як в умовах індивідуального чи дрібносерійного виробництва, так і в процесі навчання. Висновки. Використання розробленого пакету дає змогу виконати конкретне креслення для будь-якого розміру плечового виробу. Користувач отримує координати базової конструкції моделі, що готова до розробки лекал у масовому виробництві або при індивідуальному розкрої. Введение. Швейная промышленность быстро превращается в высокотехнологичную, капиталоемкую индустрию благодаря быстрым достижениям технологии, способствующей высокому качеству проектирования, раскроя и изготовления. Отрасль является одной из наиболее быстро развивающихся в производственном секторе, и поэтому чрезвычайно важно обеспечить возможность специалистам отрасли и исследователям идти в ногу с изменениями для достижения желаемой конкурентоспособности продукции. Одним из средств, позволяющих обеспечить привлечение новых потребителей продукции, которые ориентированы на технологии и живут в режиме он-лайн, — это мобильный сервис (мобильные приложения): Stylebook, Cloth, Polyvore и другие. Указанные программы преимущественно содержат галереи моделей одежды, или конструкции для определенных моделей одежды, которые обычно не имеют четко указанных размеров. Постановка задачи. Мобильные приложения, которые сегодня доступны для использования в швейной отрасли, ориентированы на сбыт уже готовой продукции. В то время, как этапы проектирования и изготовления обеспечены программными продуктами только на «домашнем» уровне, существует потребность в разработке мобильных приложений, которые будут направлены на использование именно специалистами швейной отрасли. Для разработки приложения целесообразно выбрать методику конструирования, которая является простой, доступной и известной для широкого круга пользователей. Цель. Разработка мобильного приложения для расчета параметров основных деталей плечевых изделий. Материалы и методы. Разработка мобильного приложения выполнена в операционной системе Android с использованием современного и удобного языка программирования Котлин. Результаты. Путем сравнительного анализа средств расчета базовых конструкций одежды доказана целесообразность использования мобильных приложений в швейном производстве. Разработана классификация существующих мобильных приложений, которые используются или могут быть использованы в процессах конструирования и изготовления одежды. Количественный анализ классификации подтвердил исходную гипотезу об отсутствии мобильных приложений, используемых на этапе построения типовой базовой конструкции. Для расчета параметров базовой конструкции плечевой одежды была разработана программа для мобильного приложения, которое обеспечивает поддержку автоматизированного процесса создания конструкций одежды как в условиях индивидуального или мелкосерийного производства, так и в процессе обучения. Выводы. С помощью разработанного пакета можно выполнить конкретный чертеж для любого размера плечевого изделия. Пользователь получает координаты базовой конструкции модели, которая готова к разработке лекал в массовом производстве или в индивидуальном раскрое. 2019 Article Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design / T.I. Zhylenko, A.M. Kudryavtsev, O.V. Zakharkevich // Наука та інновації. — 2019. — Т. 15, № 3. — С. 24-34. — Бібліогр.: 16 назв. — англ. 1815-2066 DOI: doi.org/10.15407/scin15.03.024 https://nasplib.isofts.kiev.ua/handle/123456789/174027 en Наука та інновації application/pdf Видавничий дім "Академперіодика" НАН України |
| institution |
Digital Library of Periodicals of National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine |
| collection |
DSpace DC |
| language |
English |
| topic |
Наукові основи інноваційної діяльності Наукові основи інноваційної діяльності |
| spellingShingle |
Наукові основи інноваційної діяльності Наукові основи інноваційної діяльності Zhylenko, T.I. Kudryavtsev, A.M. Zakharkevich, O.V. Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design Наука та інновації |
| description |
Introduction. Thanks to a rapid advancement of technology, the clothing industry is rapidly developing into a high-tech
and capital-intensive production. This contributes to a high quality of design, pattern cutting, and manufacture. The industry
is one of the fastest growing in the manufacture sector. Therefore, it is extremely important to enable industry professionals
and researchers to keep pace with changes to achieve the desired competitiveness of products. Mobile applications for the
garment industry (Stylebook, Cloth, Polyvore, etc.) have been analyzed. These applications contain galleries of clothing
models, but only for specific styles of fashion and unrecognizable sizes. Therefore, they can be used as a guide for creating
clothes of similar fashion styles but without the necessary level of accuracy.
Problem Statement. Mobile applications that are now available for use in the clothing industry are oriented towards the
sale of finished products. Since the design and manufacturing stages are provided with software products only at the "home"
level, there is a need for the development of mobile applications for clothing industry experts. To develop such an application,
it is advisable to choose a design methodology that is both simple, accessible, and known to a wide range of users.
Purpose. To develop a mobile application for calculating the parameters of the main blocks of clothing.
Materials and Methods. To create our application, an advanced and convenient programming language Kotlin has
been used.
Results. Based on the comparative analysis of the means of calculating the basic clothing designs, the expediency of
using mobile applications in the garment industry has been proved. The existing mobile applications that are used or can be
used in the design and manufacture of clothing have been classified. The quantitative classification analysis has confirmed
the original hypothesis on the lack of mobile applications used while making a typical basic design. To calculate the parameters
of the basic design of top wear, a mobile application has been developed. It provides support for the automated
process of creating clothes designs, both in individual or small-scale production, as well as in the learning process.
Conclusions. The developed package enables making specific drawings for top wear of any size. The user gets the coordinates
of basic design for making patterns for mass production or for individual pattern cutting. |
| format |
Article |
| author |
Zhylenko, T.I. Kudryavtsev, A.M. Zakharkevich, O.V. |
| author_facet |
Zhylenko, T.I. Kudryavtsev, A.M. Zakharkevich, O.V. |
| author_sort |
Zhylenko, T.I. |
| title |
Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design |
| title_short |
Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design |
| title_full |
Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design |
| title_fullStr |
Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design |
| title_full_unstemmed |
Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design |
| title_sort |
mobile application to calculate the parameters of top wear basic design |
| publisher |
Видавничий дім "Академперіодика" НАН України |
| publishDate |
2019 |
| topic_facet |
Наукові основи інноваційної діяльності |
| url |
https://nasplib.isofts.kiev.ua/handle/123456789/174027 |
| citation_txt |
Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design / T.I. Zhylenko, A.M. Kudryavtsev, O.V. Zakharkevich // Наука та інновації. — 2019. — Т. 15, № 3. — С. 24-34. — Бібліогр.: 16 назв. — англ. |
| series |
Наука та інновації |
| work_keys_str_mv |
AT zhylenkoti mobileapplicationtocalculatetheparametersoftopwearbasicdesign AT kudryavtsevam mobileapplicationtocalculatetheparametersoftopwearbasicdesign AT zakharkevichov mobileapplicationtocalculatetheparametersoftopwearbasicdesign AT zhylenkoti mobílʹnijdodatokdlâobčislennâparametrívbazovoíkonstrukcííplečovogoodâgu AT kudryavtsevam mobílʹnijdodatokdlâobčislennâparametrívbazovoíkonstrukcííplečovogoodâgu AT zakharkevichov mobílʹnijdodatokdlâobčislennâparametrívbazovoíkonstrukcííplečovogoodâgu AT zhylenkoti mobilʹnoepriloženiedlârasčetaparametrovbazovojkonstrukciiplečevojodeždy AT kudryavtsevam mobilʹnoepriloženiedlârasčetaparametrovbazovojkonstrukciiplečevojodeždy AT zakharkevichov mobilʹnoepriloženiedlârasčetaparametrovbazovojkonstrukciiplečevojodeždy |
| first_indexed |
2025-11-26T14:43:54Z |
| last_indexed |
2025-11-26T14:43:54Z |
| _version_ |
1849864479267880960 |
| fulltext |
24
Zhylenko, T.I.1, Kudryavtsev, A.M.1, and Zakharkevich, O.V.2
1 Department of Mathematical Analysis and Optimization Methods, Sumy State University,
2, Rymskiy-Korsakov St., Sumy, 40007, Ukraine,
+380 66 188 6616, t.zhylenko@phe.sumdu.edu.ua
2 Department of Clothing Design and Technology, Khmelniytskyi National University,
11, Institutska St., Khmelnytskyi, 29016, Ukraine,
+380 67 749 1647, zbir_vukladach@ukr.net
MOBILE APPLICATION TO CALCULATE
THE PARAMETERS OF TOP WEAR BASIC DESIGN
© ZHYLENKO, T.I., KUDRYAVTSEV, A.M.,
and ZAKHARKEVICH, O.V., 2019
Introduction. Thanks to a rapid advancement of technology, the clothing industry is rapidly developing into a high-tech
and capital-intensive production. This contributes to a high quality of design, pattern cutting, and manufacture. The industry
is one of the fastest growing in the manufacture sector. Therefore, it is extremely important to enable industry professionals
and researchers to keep pace with changes to achieve the desired competitiveness of products. Mobile applications for the
garment industry (Stylebook, Cloth, Polyvore, etc.) have been analyzed. These applications contain galleries of clothing
models, but only for specific styles of fashion and unrecognizable sizes. Therefore, they can be used as a guide for creating
clothes of similar fashion styles but without the necessary level of accuracy.
Problem Statement. Mobile applications that are now available for use in the clothing industry are oriented towards the
sale of finished products. Since the design and manufacturing stages are provided with software products only at the "home"
level, there is a need for the development of mobile applications for clothing industry experts. To develop such an applica-
tion, it is advisable to choose a design methodology that is both simple, accessible, and known to a wide range of users.
Purpose. To develop a mobile application for calculating the parameters of the main blocks of clothing.
Materials and Methods. To create our application, an advanced and convenient programming language Kotlin has
been used.
Results. Based on the comparative analysis of the means of calculating the basic clothing designs, the expediency of
using mobile applications in the garment industry has been proved. The existing mobile applications that are used or can be
used in the design and manufacture of clothing have been classified. The quantitative classification analysis has confirmed
the original hypothesis on the lack of mobile applications used while making a typical basic design. To calculate the para-
meters of the basic design of top wear, a mobile application has been developed. It provides support for the automated
process of creating clothes designs, both in individual or small-scale production, as well as in the learning process.
Conclusions. The developed package enables making specific drawings for top wear of any size. The user gets the co-
ordinates of basic design for making patterns for mass production or for individual pattern cutting.
K e y w o r d s : mobile application, Kotlin, class, package, and interface.
ISSN 1815-2066. Nauka innov., 2019, 15(3), 24—34 https://doi.org/10.15407/scin15.03.024
From labor-intensive, mechanically simplistic
roots, the clothing industry is quickly becoming a
high-tech, capital-intensive industry due to rapid
advances in technology which contribute to high
quality design, cutting, stitching, and finishing
techniques. The industry is one of the fastest de-
veloping in the manufacturing sector, and it is es-
sential that industry practitioners and resear -
c hers keep pace with the changes if they are to de-
velop streamlined manufacturing processes and
keep ahead of their competitors. For that reason,
even designers who work at the small enterprises
are obliged to use computer-aided design whe-
never it is possible to accomplish. However, tailor
Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design
ISSN 1815-2066. Nauka innov., 2019, 15 (3) 25
shops usually do not use any CAD systems, while
the requirements to the accuracy and speed are
strict because their work is bespoke tailoring.
Thus, the main objective of the study is to deve-
lop a means, which would be available to the ave-
rage consumer, to support weakly automated clot-
hing design process in tailor shops and other small
clothing design enterprises.
Pattern cutting from blocks or adaptation of
existing patterns is now widely used by the dress
trade because of its accuracy of sizing and the
speed with which ranges can be developed [1—5].
It is possible to calculate the basic patterns pa-
rameters by using one of the follows means: a spe-
cific mobile application, a pattern design system
(PDS), a spreadsheet program like Microsoft Ex-
cel or other like the mentioned one, and an elect-
ronic calculator. The mentioned means must be
com pared by the main criteria, which are crucial
for any patternmaker, who is working at the small
enterprise or is self-employed. These criteria are
as follows: speed, precision, cost and convenience
of usage (Table).
Pattern design systems are very useful means
to speed up designer’s work. However, PDS is far
too costly tool to be used by every clothing de-
signer. PDS usually requires some specific perip-
heral devices such as a plotter or a digitizer. Fur-
thermore, in order to use PDS it is mandatory to
know how it works. However, it is only for last
fifteen years the courses, which are devoted to
study of the PDS, are in the curriculum at the
universities. There were no such courses before.
That is why, a professional, whose age is more
than 37 years old does not know how the PDS
works if he does not studied it additionally. It is
must be mentioned that according to the data of
the official site WORK.ua about half of the pro-
fessional patternmakers on the job market are
older than 37, and 59.3% of them said in their re-
sumes that they were previously employed at the
small subsidiary companies, which usually do not
use PDS for its high cost. For that reason, the
high cost of the PDS is considered as its main
disadvantage.
Besides that, although patterns can be draf-
ted directly on the screen, PDS is particularly
adept at adapting blocks or modifying patterns
stored within the computer. While designing clot-
hes for individual figures usually requires draf-
ting blocks of specific garments. The same goes to
the speci fics of students’ works. Drafting blocks
is necessary for beginners, students, who are star-
ting practical pattern cutting as part of fashion
degree or diploma courses or for students in up-
per schools, who are studying advanced dress and
textile subjects.
Thus, all of abovementioned categories of users
are bound to be stuck in the old-fashioned clot-
hing drafting techniques, which require calcula-
ting of blocks parameters by designer himself. Ho-
wever, the low speed of calculation and its incon-
venience along with the high risk of occurring
mistakes, which have to do with human factor,
are major disadvantages, which speak against
using such method despite its low cost.
The most common way to calculate the parame-
ters is to use MS Excel or any other spreadsheet
that works online or offline. According to infor-
mation of the service Google Trends, interest in
such online tools to design patterns of clothes is
constant during the last years (Fig. 1).
However, it is not that convenient way to work
because one has to draft a pattern directly on the
fashion fabric and to watch at the screen of per-
sonal computer simultaneously.
For that reason, the mobile app would be a
great mean to speed up the work of clothing de-
signer and make it easy and modern. Besides that,
this will be useful for women who make clothes
for themselves, in order to create and develop
Comparison of the means of calculation
Way of calculation Speed Precision Cost Convenience
Mobile application + + + +
Pattern design system
(PDS) + + – –
Spreadsheet program + + + –
Electronic calculator – – + –
Zhylenko, T.I., Kudryavtsev, A.M., and Zakharkevich, O.V.
26 ISSN 1815-2066. Nauka innov., 2019, 15 (3)
their own individual style, or women who find
mass-produced clothes an uneasy fit.
Fashion is an entirely new direction for mobile
applications, but it is far from to be exception
from the list of possible applications. The oppor-
tunities for mobile apps in the fashion domain are
very versatile. There are many different mobile
apps, which are useful enough to be considered as
a great service of modern software in the every-
day life of average person. Among them most fre-
quently mentioned are Stylebook [6], Cloth [7],
and Polyvore [8].
2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Year
a
b
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
Fr
eq
ue
nc
y,
%
Total
English
Russian
Month, year
Ju
ly
, 2
01
7
A
ug
us
t,
20
17
Se
pt
em
be
r,
20
17
O
ct
ob
er
, 2
01
7
N
ov
em
be
r,
20
17
D
ec
em
be
r,
20
17
Ja
nu
ar
y,
2
01
8
Fe
br
ua
ry
, 2
01
8
M
ar
ch
, 2
01
8
A
pr
il,
2
01
8
M
ay
, 2
01
8
Ju
ne
, 2
01
8
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
Total
English
Russian
Fig. 1. Analysis of the search queries, which refer to automatization of the garment design,
in Google Search
Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design
ISSN 1815-2066. Nauka innov., 2019, 15 (3) 27
Stylebook is an expert wardrobe organization
and closet management tool created by a fashion
industry insider. Cloth is an app for iPhone that
makes it easy to save, categorize, and share ones
favorite outfits. The app also uses real-time weat-
her data to help user pick his best outfits for cur-
rent conditions. Few years ago, Polyvore released
iOS app, which is surfacing personalized fashion
recommendations.
By using Google Play Market, 350 mobile app-
lications, which have something to do with clo-
t hing and its design or manufacturing, were dis-
covered. As it shown in the Figure 2, the majority
of them are the apps to support fashion distribu-
tion market: 27.7% of them are online shops apps,
and 20.0% are the apps, which represent fashion
trends in current season.
Almost a half of the apps might be used in a
process of clothing design as these apps content
the galleries of clothing patterns. However, the
clothing patterns are given for the particular
fashion styles and of unrecognizable sizes. For
that reason, while they can be used as a guide to
construct the garment of the same fashion style
the basic pattern, which matches to consumers
body measurements, is still needed because it
allows one to achieve the required level of ac-
curacy.
All of considered mobile apps were categorized
according to the stage of the clothing life cycle
they refer to (Fig. 3). The stages are as follows:
design (consists of creating a sketch, body mea-
suring, designing a basic pattern or master pat-
tern, and designing patterns of the specific fa-
s hion style), manufacturing, distribution, and exp-
loitation [9]. As we can see in the figure 3, only
two out of four stages are supported by mobile
applications. However, the percentage of the mo-
bile apps to calculate any parameters is drasti-
cally low. It is only about 1% of the whole popula-
tion of the clothing design mobile apps.
Fig. 2. Types of the mobile applications that are used in garment industry
Apps to create
a capsule wardrobe,
2.86%
Apps to learn sewing,
2.86% Apps to organize
a wardrobe, 1.71%
Apps to organize
tailor’s work, 0.57%
Pattern calculators, 0.57%
Fabrics calculators, 0.29%
Virtual fitting apps, 0.29%
Clothing colour matching
apps, 0.29%
Apps to save the clients
measurements, 1.14%
Fashion and clothing
glossary apps, 0.86%
Apps to create a sketch
of fashion design, 0.57%
Online shops apps,
27.71%
Galleries of
clothing styles,
20.00%
Galleries of ready-made
clothing patterns,
40.29%
Others, 6.29%
Fig. 3. Categorization of the mobile apps according to the
stage of the clothing life cycle they are used at
manufacturing
sketch
48%
4%
4% 1%
1% 1%
1%
40%
43%
distribution
measurements
exploitation
master pattern
any stage
style pattern
Zhylenko, T.I., Kudryavtsev, A.M., and Zakharkevich, O.V.
28 ISSN 1815-2066. Nauka innov., 2019, 15 (3)
Thus, in the fashion-retailing domain, mobile
apps are widely used, but virtually there is no ap-
plication in apparel design. Which is why the de-
velopment of the mobile app that will be a means
of clothing designer work is a task to be solved.
There are many different pattern-cutting tech-
niques, which are used separately or in complex.
Among them, there are some very famous tech-
niques such as Voronin’s method [9], Winifred
Aldrich [10], Muller & Son [11], Lubacs [12], Uni-
meCS and others. To create a mobile app, it is
proper to use a technique that might be applied
to the wide range of menswear, womenswear or
children’s wear. Besides that, the technique must
belong to calculation methods. It is mandatory
requirement due to necessity to have some spe-
cific equipment for the realization of other me-
t hods. For that reason, Voronin’s unique method
of tailoring menswear without fittings is consi-
dered as improper for the further development of
the mobile app.
Lubacs and UnimeCS methods compose a sub-
group of client-oriented methods of patternma-
king. Such methods give promising results for the
experienced user. However, there are no many
designers, who use these methods due to the high
cost of education. Another reason is complexity
of the methods. Most of users choose simple me-
t hods that are based on the few body measure-
ments rather than complex methods, which requi-
re special training.
The main task of the work is to develop a mo-
bile application for calculating the parameters of
the main templates. The choice of a method of for-
ming templates, which is the method of calcula-
tion for application to a wide range of clothing,
and is not complex according to the instructions
for drawing up a pattern of a clothing block [8].
Fig. 4. Analysis of the search queries, which refer to auto-
matization of the garment design, in Google Search
Fig. 5. Own graphic object class diagram
Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design
ISSN 1815-2066. Nauka innov., 2019, 15 (3) 29
For accurate and automated computing, you
need to use the necessary software. It is conve-
nient to use MS Excel for difficult calculations.
However, this is hard to do on mobile devices be-
cause MS Excel is not designed for mobile devi-
ces, so its use on phones is not rational. That is
why the app for mobile devices on the Android
operating system was developed. The Android
operating system is the most popular mobile op-
erating system. Android is based on a modified
Linux kernel and other open source software de-
signed for touch screen mobile devices such as
smartphones and tablets. The operating system is
developed and maintained by Google. 75% of mo-
bile devices run on the Android operating system.
There are many ways you can create applications
for the Android operating system. To write appli-
cations to the Android operating system, many
programming languages (Java, C #, Kotlin, C++,
Python) and integrated development environ-
ments (IDE) (Android Studio, IntelliJ IDEA,
Vi sual Studio with Xamarin, Pycharm with Ki-
vy) are used. We created a mobile app for using Fig. 6. Class diagram of the formula visualization module
Fig. 7. A class diagram that describes the data structures used for calculating and visualizing formulas
Zhylenko, T.I., Kudryavtsev, A.M., and Zakharkevich, O.V.
30 ISSN 1815-2066. Nauka innov., 2019, 15 (3)
the Android integrated platform — Android Stu-
dio. This program is freeware, distributed under
the Apache 2.0 license, official support provided
by Google. Android Studio is based on IntelliJ
IDEA Community Edition, which is supported
by Jet Brains. Applications for the Android ope-
rating system can be created in many program-
ming languages. Java is now the most popular
language for Android development. However, for
the creation of our application, we used a more
modern and convenient programming language
Kotlin [13—15].
Fig. 8. A class diagram that represents the module that contains the logic of calculations
Important аdvantages of Android Studio: are
collection of typical interface elements and a vi-
sual editor for their layout, which provides a con-
venient preview of the future application, code
light, analysis and error detection, integration
with the Git version control system. Android
Studio has a handy developer console, hints for
optimization, Google Analytics metrics. To build
such an application, the griddle assembly system
is used.
The choice of the Kotlin programming lan-
guage is due to the fact that it is more modern
Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design
ISSN 1815-2066. Nauka innov., 2019, 15 (3) 31
and easier to write programs. Kotlin can compile
in three variations: bytecode JVM, JavaScript,
Native. You can also use all Java-frames and lib-
raries. Kotlin can be converted to Java and vice
versa. This programming language is null-safe. It
supports properties that do not support Java.
This allows you to make the code presentable and
do not waste time creating the getters and set-
ters. Kotlin uses more modern lambda than Java.
Kotlin implemented a simpler design procedure.
Another important feature is the "String temp-
late", which allows you to format the strings quick-
ly and easily.
To create the kernel of the application, we used
an object-oriented programming paradigm. All the
main logic of the program is described separately
using the classes of individual packages. A class is
a template that has certain fields and methods.
This approach allows you to apply different shells
to one common kernel of the application.
Main Activity is a class that describes the work
of the user with the program (buttons, text pa-
nels, fields for inputting data). The view package
contains classes for easy work with visual objects
in the program. The core of the core is the core
logic of the program. It contains classes and in-
terfaces for mathematical calculations and a de-
scription of all mathematical notation.
There are two smaller packages in the view
pac kage: struct and action. The struct contains
classes that describe the work of graphic objects,
and in action, there are classes to work on these
objects (Fig. 4).
Action View interface that describes what to
do. Add View completes the addition of the view
element (Fig. 5).
The Custom View interface describes which
graphic element it returns. Info Pane is a text
panel with information. Input Pane is a panel for
entering values from a formula; it also returns
this value with its conditional notation. The core
package contains classes and interfaces for mathe-
matical calculations and description of all mathe-
matical notation. Here is stored all the main lo gic
of the program.
Signs — this is an enum-class (enumeration),
mathematical notation and description are stored
here. In a simple form of transfer is a list of named
constants.
But Kotlin's transfer has a more complex func-
tionality than in other programming languages.
They can interpret constructors, methods, and in-
s tance variables. The formulas package contains
all formulas and some functionality over them. The
num package describes the classes with numbers
and the main function that can be performed over
them. In the Print package [14], there are classes
for textual derivation of formulas.
The Print interface contains one field that de-
scribes the text representation of the formula. In
order for the code to always have the same out-
put, the design pattern of the factory method is
implemented. Factory interface. It is implemen-
ted by the Factory Full Print class. Within this
class, a Full Print class is created that implements
the Print interface. And the get Print method re-
turns a specific Print implementation. The code
hides a specific implementation, and it becomes
more abstract (Fig. 6).
Fig. 9. Image of the final draft of the clothing block pattern
A
Г7
Г2
Г4
Г8
Г
Т Т8 Т2 Т3 Т1
Б
Г3 Г6
Г5
Г9
Г1
1 2
3
4
П П1
П5 П3
П4
П2
A5A7
A71A8A9
A81
a1a
A6
A1
A3
A2
A4
Zhylenko, T.I., Kudryavtsev, A.M., and Zakharkevich, O.V.
32 ISSN 1815-2066. Nauka innov., 2019, 15 (3)
The Formula Interface describes what formu-
las are composed of. The formulas contain sym-
bols and descriptions of the actions they perform.
The implementation package implements this in-
terface.
The num package contains the following packa-
ges (Fig. 7).
Action contains actions on numbers (Fig. 8).
This application architecture allows you to
quickly create a flexible application on Android.
We can add any new module that will expand the
application. Some of the basic design patterns
used factory method and decorator. This allows
us to hide the implementation of interfaces and
wrap some objects in others, this allows us to ex-
pand their functionality. The architecture of the
application meets modern standards.
Our mobile application can be seen if you
follow the link https://www.dropbox.com/s/di-
ioq3rot5kya1h/Master%20Pattern.apk?dl=0. To
start working with the application you need to
enter the correct data, after which you need to
click on the "Next" button. After clicking the
"Next" button, the check is performed to fill all
fields. If the fields are not filled, a warning will
appear and they will be filled with zeros. After
filling in all the fields, the program calculates the
result and passes to the calculation of the next in-
dicator.
The mathematical model of calculations has a
trivial form
L = Т + P + a,
where L is length of the construction line, cm; T is
measurements of the body, cm; P is amount of
eases, cm; а is constant. Interim calculations of
the construction describe at each new step of the
mobile application.
The calculation is given for the specific instruc-
tion of the clothing block pattern drafting, which
is described in [16]. The user is provided with
ima ge of the final draft that will be obtained if
the app is applied in a proper way (Fig. 9).
Similar mobile application might be developed
for any instructions to draft clothing pattern
blocks. Thus, required premises to apply mobile
devices in apparel design are developed.
For the first time, a mobile application was de-
veloped for the urgent and rapid calculation of
parameters to design basic blocks of the clothing
patterns. The patterns might be constructed di-
rectly on the fashion fabric by using the develo-
ped mobile app as a calculator and notepad. The
precision of the calculation is the same as of other
calculation methods while the risk of accidental
mistakes due to the human factor is excluded
from the designing process.
Clothing designers can use it as well as stu-
dents for training in their study of clothing de-
sign. It is useful tool for the people, who make
their living on garment design for individual cus-
tomers or like to sew for themselves. The calcula-
tion of parameters is determined quickly and wit h-
out economic costs.
Thus, the main objective of the study was
achieved through developing the mobile applica-
tion to calculate the parameters of clothing ba-
sic blocks, and by doing so the support of weakly
automated clothing design process in tailor shops
and other small clothing design enterprises was
ensured.
REFERENCES
1. Zakharkevich, O. V., Kuleshova, S. G. (2017). Development of the method of scaling patterns and virtual garments
forms. Vlakna a Textil., 4, 34—40.
2. Gnidenko, S. G., Yudin, L. P., Kuzmichev, V. E. (2007). Arkhitectura ekspertnoi systemy otsinky yakosti dyzainu
odiahu of expert system of quality assessment of clothes' designs. Sewing Industry, 5, 52—54.
3. Selezneva, A. V., Slavinskaya, A. L. (2014). Designing effect of woman's figure, created corset, consider psikhofiziologic
comfort, Proceedings of higher education institutions. Textile industry Technology, 2(350), 102—106.
4. Yakymchuk, D., Yakymchuk, O., Orlenko, O. (2017). Study of cutting presses in designing a women's costume for
hospitality industry. Eastern European Journal of Enterprise Technologies, 5, 1(89), 26—36.
Mobile Application to Calculate the Parameters of Top Wear Basic Design
ISSN 1815-2066. Nauka innov., 2019, 15 (3) 33
5. Zakharkevich, O., Zhylenko, T., Shvets, G. (2018). Expert system to select the fabrics for transformable garments.
Vlakna a Textil., 2, 105—112.
6. Stylebook on the App Store. URL: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/stylebook/id335709058?mt=8 (Last accessed:
21.08.2018).
7. Cloth. URL: http://www.clothapp.com/(Last accessed: 21.08.2018).
8. Polyvore (iOS) — Product Hunt. URL: https://www.producthunt.com/posts/polyvore-ios (Last accessed: 21.08.2018).
9. Aldrich, W. (2008). Metric pattern cutting for women’s wear. Wiley-Blackwell.
10. Characteristics of the design method M. Myuller &Son. URL: http://wellconstruction.ru/konstr2/harakteristika-
metodiki-konstruirovaniya-m-myuller-i-syin (Last accessed: 21.08.2018).
11. Krasnikova-Aksenova, L. Ya. (1995). Uchebnik po modelirovanyiu odezhdy po metodu Lubaka. Moscow [in Russian].
12. Slavіnska, A. L. (2007). Osnovy modulnogo dyzainu odiahu. Khmelnitsky [in Ukrainian].
13. StartAndroid. URL: http://startofandroid.com/ (Last accessed: 21.08.2018).
14. Gerbert Shildt. (2015). Java 8. Polnoe rukovodstvo. Moscow [in Russian].
15. Kotlin Programming Language. URL: https://kotlinlang.org/ (Last accessed: 21.08.2018).
16. Meshkova, E. V. (2006). Dizain odiezhdy. Uchiebnoe posobie. Moscow.
Received 29.08.18
Т.І. Жиленко1, А.М. Кудрявцев1, О.В. Захаркевич 2
1 Кафедра математичного аналізу та методів оптимізації
Сумського державного університету,
вул. Римського-Корсакова, 2, Суми, 40007, Україна,
+380 66 188 6616, t.zhylenko@phe.sumdu.edu.ua
2 Кафедра технології та конструювання швейних виробів
Хмельницького національного університету,
вул. Інститутська, 11, Хмельницький, 29016, Україна,
+380 67 749 1647, zbir_vukladach@ukr.net
МОБІЛЬНИЙ ДОДАТОК ДЛЯ ОБЧИСЛЕННЯ ПАРАМЕТРІВ
БАЗОВОЇ КОНСТРУКЦІЇ ПЛЕЧОВОГО ОДЯГУ
Вступ. На сьогодні швейна промисловість стрімко перетворюється на високотехнологічну, капіталомістку інду-
стрію завдяки сучасним досягненням технології, що сприяє високій якості проектування, розкрою та виготовлення
одягу. Розвиток цієї галузі у виробничому секторі є досить інтенсивним, тому надзвичайно важливим є забезпечення
відповідних фахівців та дослідників сучасними технологічними розробками для створення конкурентоздатної про-
дукції. Одним із засобів, що дозволяють залучити нових споживачів продукції, які орієнтовані на технології та жи-
вуть в режимі он-лайн, є мобільний сервіс (мобільні додатки) Stylebook, Cloth, Polyvore та інші. Проте зазначені про-
грами містять переважно галереї моделей одягу або конструкції для певних моделей одягу, які зазвичай не мають
чітко вказаних розмірів.
Постановка проблеми. Мобільні додатки, які сьогодні доступні для використання у швейній галузі, зорієнтова-
но на збут уже готової продукції. В той час, як етапи проектування та виготовлення забезпечені програмними про-
дуктами лише на «домашньому» рівні, існує потреба в розробці мобільних додатків, що будуть спрямовані на вико-
ристання саме фахівцями швейної галузі. Для розробки зазначеного додатку доцільно обирати методику конструю-
вання, яка є водночас простою, доступною і відомою для широкого кола користувачів.
Мета. Розробка мобільного додатку для розрахунку параметрів основних деталей плечового одягу.
Матеріали й методи. Розробку програми виконано у операційній системі Android з використанням сучасної та
зручної мови програмування Котлін.
Результати. Шляхом порівняльного аналізу засобів розрахунку базових конструкцій одягу доведено доціль-
ність використання мобільних додатків у швейному виробництві. Розроблено класифікацію наявних мобільних до-
датків, що використовуються або можуть бути використані у процесах конструювання та виготовлення одягу. Кіль-
кісний аналіз класифікації підтвердив вихідну гіпотезу щодо відсутності мобільних додатків, які використовуються
на етапі побудови типової базової конструкції. Для розрахунку параметрів базової конструкції плечового одягу було
розроблено програму мобільного додатку, який забезпечує підтримку автоматизованого процесу створення конст-
рукцій одягу як в умовах індивідуального чи дрібносерійного виробництва, так і в процесі навчання.
Zhylenko, T.I., Kudryavtsev, A.M., and Zakharkevich, O.V.
34 ISSN 1815-2066. Nauka innov., 2019, 15 (3)
Висновки. Використання розробленого пакету дає змогу виконати конкретне креслення для будь-якого розміру
плечового виробу. Користувач отримує координати базової конструкції моделі, що готова до розробки лекал у масо-
вому виробництві або при індивідуальному розкрої.
Ключові слова : мобільний додаток, Kotlin, клас, пакет, інтерфейс.
Т.И. Жиленко1, А.М. Кудрявцев1, О.В. Захаркевич 2
1 Кафедра математического анализа и методов оптимизации
Сумского государственного университета,
ул. Рымского-Корсакова, 2, Сумы, 40007, Украина,
+380 66 188 6616, t.zhylenko@phe.sumdu.edu.ua
2 Кафедра дизайна одежды и технологий
Хмельницкого национального университета,
ул. Институтская, 11, Хмельницкий, 29016, Украина,
+380 67 749 1647, zbir_vukladach@ukr.net
МОБИЛЬНОЕ ПРИЛОЖЕНИЕ ДЛЯ РАСЧЕТА ПАРАМЕТРОВ
БАЗОВОЙ КОНСТРУКЦИИ ПЛЕЧЕВОЙ ОДЕЖДЫ
Введение. Швейная промышленность быстро превращается в высокотехнологичную, капиталоемкую индуст-
рию благодаря быстрым достижениям технологии, способствующей высокому качеству проектирования, раскроя и
изготовления. Отрасль является одной из наиболее быстро развивающихся в производственном секторе, и поэтому
чрезвычайно важно обеспечить возможность специалистам отрасли и исследователям идти в ногу с изменениями
для достижения желаемой конкурентоспособности продукции. Одним из средств, позволяющих обеспечить привле-
чение новых потребителей продукции, которые ориентированы на технологии и живут в режиме он-лайн, — это мо-
бильный сервис (мобильные приложения): Stylebook, Cloth, Polyvore и другие. Указанные программы преимуществен-
но содержат галереи моделей одежды, или конструкции для определенных моделей одежды, которые обычно не име-
ют четко указанных размеров.
Постановка задачи. Мобильные приложения, которые сегодня доступны для использования в швейной отрас-
ли, ориентированы на сбыт уже готовой продукции. В то время, как этапы проектирования и изготовления обеспече-
ны программными продуктами только на «домашнем» уровне, существует потребность в разработке мобильных при-
ложений, которые будут направлены на использование именно специалистами швейной отрасли. Для разработки
приложения целесообразно выбрать методику конструирования, которая является простой, доступной и известной
для широкого круга пользователей.
Цель. Разработка мобильного приложения для расчета параметров основных деталей плечевых изделий.
Материалы и методы. Разработка мобильного приложения выполнена в операционной системе Android с ис-
пользованием современного и удобного языка программирования Котлин.
Результаты. Путем сравнительного анализа средств расчета базовых конструкций одежды доказана целесооб-
разность использования мобильных приложений в швейном производстве. Разработана классификация существую-
щих мобильных приложений, которые используются или могут быть использованы в процессах конструирования и
изготовления одежды. Количественный анализ классификации подтвердил исходную гипотезу об отсутствии мо-
бильных приложений, используемых на этапе построения типовой базовой конструкции. Для расчета параметров
базовой конструкции плечевой одежды была разработана программа для мобильного приложения, которое обеспе-
чивает поддержку автоматизированного процесса создания конструкций одежды как в условиях индивидуального
или мелкосерийного производства, так и в процессе обучения.
Выводы. С помощью разработанного пакета можно выполнить конкретный чертеж для любого размера плече-
вого изделия. Пользователь получает координаты базовой конструкции модели, которая готова к разработке лекал в
массовом производстве или в индивидуальном раскрое.
Ключевые слова: мобильное приложение, Kotlin, класс, пакет, интерфейс.
|