Головні убори із Бердянського кургану

• Опубліковано в: : Археологія і давня історія України
• Дата: 2020
• Автор: Клочко, Л.С.
• Формат: Стаття
• Мова: Українська
• Опубліковано: Інститут археології НАН України 2020
• Теми: До історії костюма
• Онлайн доступ: https://nasplib.isofts.kiev.ua/handle/123456789/187346
• Назва журналу: Digital Library of Periodicals of National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine
• Цитувати: Головні убори із Бердянського кургану / Л.С. Клочко // Археологія і давня історія України: Зб. наук. пр. — К.: ІА НАН України, 2020. — Вип. 3 (36). — С. 383-394. — Бібліогр.: 36 назв. — укр.

У пограбованій центральній могилі Бердянського
 кургану залишилася незруйнована ділянка, на якій
 in situ зафіксовано велику кількість декоративних
 елементів. Особливу цікавість викликають золоті
 пластинки-прикраси предметів жіночого вбрання:
 головних уборів, одягу тощо. Пластинки-аплікації
 розрізняються за розмірами та рельєфними зображеннями на поверхні. Визначення семантики образів дозволяє зробити припущення про особливий характер ділянки і речей, які поклали до могили при звершенні поховання. The Berdyansk kurgan has been studied for a long
 time, however some problems remain unsolved. One of
 them is the reconstruction of costume components by
 decorative elements, found in central burial (N 2). It was
 raided, however one area remained intact. Below the
 collapsed ceiling is the «item storage»: there were items
 of which only jewelry remained — the large amount of
 golden applique plates (2991 items total). The most peculiar
 are the artifacts which were probably the adornments
 for the headwear. In order to recreate their form,
 the complex and comparative analyses of golden plates’
 collections were performed. The probably adorned coneshaped
 hats and the veil. The one collection of adornments
 included appliques which were on the frontal part
 of the headwear. Below were the triangular plates, the
 main part was occupied by ornamented appliques: «portraits
 » full face (female image) and profile (grotesque
 male image), felidae predator. The adornments of the
 cone-shaped hat are connected to the other headwear —
 the veil. It was ornamented on its edges — on the left
 and on the right — with rectangular plates which contained
 so-called «brotherhood scene». The connection of
 the said images on the headwears is the marker of sacramental
 act — wedding rituals.
 The artifacts, which probably were ornaments of
 headwear, draw most attention. The complex and
 comparative analysis of golden jewelry was used in
 order to recreate their form. It is possible that they
 were attached to different types of attires. One attire
 consisted of cone-shaped hat and the veil. They are
 decorated with anthropomorphous images and geometrical
 ornaments (triangles). Another attire is also
 the cone-shaped hat, which form is supported by horizontal
 lines of plates with the images of predators and
 triangles. Generally speaking, these are the symbols
 of fertility cult. One of the tasks of the research is the
 determination of attire’s semantics. The grave contains
 the burial of a high-rank man, but the reconstructed
 attires are female. Cone-shaped attires are linked to
 wedding ceremonies in many peoples. The burial and
 wedding rituals have similar semantics, since both are
 about passing from one world to another. Sacred attires
 could have been the markers of bride’s (or brides’)
 presence in the male burial.
 Apart from the headwears there were also the necklace
 which resembles the net and the clothes adorned
 with golden appliques. The «item storage» was surrounded
 by the golden plates, presumably sewed on the
 veil, which had the images of the gryphon and felidae
 hunter — the ornament which divides two worlds —
 one of life, and the other of death.