An overview of beach morphodynamic classification along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari, Southern Tamilnadu coast, India
Beach morphology relates the mutual adjustment between topography and fluid dynamics. The morphological makeup of beach systems is not accidental because the arrangement and association of forms occur in an organized contextual space and time. Since the classification derived by Wright and Short (19...
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| Zitieren: | An overview of beach morphodynamic classification along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari, Southern Tamilnadu coast, India / S. Saravanan, N. Chandrasekar, P. Sheik Mujabar, C. Hentry // Морской гидрофизический журнал. — 2011. — № 2. — С. 57-71. — Бібліогр.: 31 назв. — рос. |
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Digital Library of Periodicals of National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine| _version_ | 1860253060753784832 |
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| author | Saravanan, S. Chandrasekar, N. Sheik Mujabar, P. Hentry, C. |
| author_facet | Saravanan, S. Chandrasekar, N. Sheik Mujabar, P. Hentry, C. |
| citation_txt | An overview of beach morphodynamic classification along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari, Southern Tamilnadu coast, India / S. Saravanan, N. Chandrasekar, P. Sheik Mujabar, C. Hentry // Морской гидрофизический журнал. — 2011. — № 2. — С. 57-71. — Бібліогр.: 31 назв. — рос. |
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| description | Beach morphology relates the mutual adjustment between topography and fluid dynamics. The morphological makeup of beach systems is not accidental because the arrangement and association of forms occur in an organized contextual space and time. Since the classification derived by Wright and Short (1983) obtained from the analysis of the evolution in a number of Southern Tamilnadu beach sites, beach systems are comprehended in terms of three-dimensional morphodynamic models that include quantitative parameters (wave breaking height, sediment fall velocity, wave period and beach slope) and boundary conditions for definable form-processes association (e.g. presence or absence of bars as well as its type). This has lead to the classification of beaches into three main categories relating the beach state observations with the physical forcing (Short, 1999) dissipative, intermediate (from the intermediate-dissipative domain to the intermediate-reflective domain) and reflective modes. Morphodynamic classification of beach types was based on the equations of Wright & Short (1984) (Dimensionless fall velocity – Dean Parameter).
Морфология берега отражает взаимное влияние топографии и динамики жидкости. При этом морфологическое строение береговых систем не является случайным, а определяется распределением и пространственно-временным взаимодействием береговых форм. Начиная с классификации, предложенной Райтом и Шортом (1983), основанной на анализе эволюции нескольких участков пляжа Южного берега Тамилнаду, пляжные системы рассматриваются в рамках трехмерных морфодинамических моделей, включающих количественные характеристики (высоту обрушения волн, скорость образования осадков, волновой период и уклон пляжа) и граничные условия для определенных взаимосвязей береговой динамики (т. е. наличие или отсутствие баров и их тип). Это привело к подразделению пляжей на три основные категории в соответствии с их поведением по отношению к внешним силам (Шорт, 1999) – рассеивающие, промежуточные (от промежуточно-рассеивающих до промежуточно-отражающих вариантов) и отражающие. Морфодинамическая классификация типов пляжей основана на уравнениях Райта и Шорта, 1984 (безразмерная скорость осадкообразования – параметр Дина).
Морфологія берега відображає взаємний вплив топографії та динаміки рідини. При цьому морфологічна будова берегових систем не є випадковою, а визначається розподілом і просторово-часовою взаємодією берегових форм. Починаючи з класифікації, запропонованої Райтом та Шортом (1983), заснованої на аналізі еволюції декількох ділянок пляжу Південного берега Тамілнаду, пляжні системи розглядаються в рамках тривимірних морфодинамічних моделей, які включають кількісні характеристики (висоту обвалення хвиль, швидкість утворення опадів, хвильовий період та ухил пляжу) та граничні умови для певних взаємозв'язків берегової динаміки (тобто наявність або відсутність барів і їх тип). Це призвело до підрозділу пляжів на три основні категорії відповідно до їхньої поведінки відносно фізичних сил (Шорт, 1999) – розсіюючі, проміжні (від проміжно-розсіюючих до проміжно-відбиваючих варіантів) і відбиваючі. Морфодинамічна класифікація типів пляжів заснована на рівнянні Райта та Шорта, 1984 (безрозмірна швидкість осадоутворювання – параметр Діна).
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ISSN 0233-7584. Мор. гидрофиз. журн., 2011, № 2 57
© S. Saravanan, N. Chandrasekar, P. Sheik Mujabar and C. Hentry, 2011
UDC 551.468.1
S. Saravanan, N. Chandrasekar, P. Sheik Mujabar and C. Hentry
An overview of beach morphodynamic classification along
the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari,
Southern Tamilnadu coast, India
Beach morphology relates the mutual adjustment between topography and fluid dynamics. The
morphological makeup of beach systems is not accidental because the arrangement and association of
forms occur in an organized contextual space and time. Since the classification derived by Wright and
Short (1983) obtained from the analysis of the evolution in a number of Southern Tamilnadu beach
sites, beach systems are comprehended in terms of three-dimensional morphodynamic models that
include quantitative parameters (wave breaking height, sediment fall velocity, wave period and beach
slope) and boundary conditions for definable form-processes association (e.g. presence or absence of
bars as well as its type). This has lead to the classification of beaches into three main categories relat-
ing the beach state observations with the physical forcing (Short, 1999) dissipative, intermediate
(from the intermediate-dissipative domain to the intermediate-reflective domain) and reflective
modes. Morphodynamic classification of beach types was based on the equations of Wright & Short
(1984) (Dimensionless fall velocity – Dean Parameter).
Keywords: beach, equations of Wright & Short, waves, morphodynamic, India.
1. INTRODUCTION
Beach type will occur under certain ranges of waves and grain size parameters
assuming that the beach will fully respond to governing parameters which may take
days (e.g. associated with storm periods) or to about a year (e.g. modifications of
sediment size and type by nourishment projects) (Benedet et al., 2004). In this way
limitations in applying the Wright and Short approach are recognized particularity
for intermediate phases prediction. Wright et al. (1987) found only a 36% of
agreement between observed and predicted beach states. This classification is
quantified by means of a dimensionless fall velocity parameter, which is defined as
Ω = Hb/TWs,
where Hb is the wave breaking height, T is the wave period and Ws is the sediment
fall velocity.
Here we describe and discuss the morphodynamics of the beaches, based on
the results obtained by cross shore beach profile surveys and in situ observations of
the beaches in the last two years. The main goal of this paper is to elucidate a beach
morphodynamic sequence and classification of beaches in Southern Tamilnadu
coast.
2. STUDY AREA
The study area extends from Ovari to Kanyakumari (N 78°02', E 08°54' and
N 78°16', E 08°79') along the southern coastal tract of Tamilnadu State, India cov-
ISSN 0233-7584. Мор. гидрофиз. журн., 2011, № 2 58
ering about 110 km. It falls under the districts of Tirunelveli and Kanyakumari. It is
bounded in the north eastern side by foot-shaped Rameswaram Island; in the East
by the Bay of Bengal; in the west by Western Ghat and in the south by Kanyaku-
mari coast which is characterised by the confluence of Indian Ocean, Arabian Sea
and the Bay of Bengal (Fig. 1). Morphometric analysis of the drainage network
reveals the prevalence of dentritic to sub-dentritic drainages. Nambiyar River
drains some parts of Tirunelveli district. It originates in Mayamparambur area lo-
cated at the foothills of Mahendragiri and receives water from Thamarai Aru and
Kombai Aru and joins at Kuttankuli. In the study region, prominent changes are
observed in the bathymetry between Kanyakumari and Ovari. The wave length of
the sand waves is less and in the range around 250 m and wave height is greater in
the deeper part which is of the order of 2000 m in wave length. Loveson (1994) has
identified the existence of different blocks on the basis of different major linea-
ments and the nature of variation in geomorphic landforms along this study area:
(i) Thiruchendur – Navaladi, (ii) Navaladi – Kanyakumari are one of those things.
Srinivasan, R. and Srinivasan, V. (1990) have divided the entire stretch of Tamil-
nadu coast into eight different blocks. Waves and longshore currents have also
played an important role in shaping the shoreline. The coastline configuration of
the study region displays a varying trend in NE – SW and NNE – SSW directions
(Fig. 2).
F i g. 1. Location map of the study area
Sheik Mujabar et al. (2007) reported that the tsunami induced large amount of
beach erosion along the study area. Saravanan et al. (2009) reported the post-
tsunami assessment along the study area. Angusamy (1998) made a panoramic
ISSN 0233-7584. Мор. гидрофиз. журн., 2011, № 2 59
classification of the beaches between Mandapam and Kanyakumari, Tamilnadu
based upon the beach composition, beach gradient and beach configuration.
Chandrasekar et al. (2001) proposed that unsystematic garnet sand mining affected
the beach morphology especially the littoral zone along the coast between Peri-
yathalai and Navaladi, Tamilnadu.
F i g. 2. Coastline configuration along the coast
3. DATA AND METHODS
3.1. Sediment characterization
A total of 122 sand samples were collected at 10 sandy beaches. Samples were
taken at several cross-shore elevations in transects perpendicular to the shore at
locations with different morphological features (e.g. beach face, surf domain,
troughs or bars). Samples were rinsed with fresh water, dried 24 hours in the oven
at 90°C and divided into sub-samples for sieving and settling analysis. Dry sieve
analysis was performed using a series of sieves ranging in mesh size from
0.063 mm to 4.76 mm. Grain size distributions were determined using the
GRADISTAT package.
For each fraction a textural analysis was performed. We have found a good
agreement with the sediment velocity values predicted by Gibbs equation although
using D50 sieve size and empirical sand density rather than quartz.
3.2. Classification of beaches
Beaches can be divided into various types on the basis of (i) their composition,
(ii) their gradient and (iii) their configuration. Along the study area, beaches are
both sandy and rocky in nature. Some are of mixed type. On the strength of the na-
ture of rocks exposed along the beaches, the rocky beaches can be further grouped
into beaches made up of (i) coralline rocks, (ii) crystalline rocks, (iii) hard calcare-
ous sandstone and (iv) calcrete. Discontinuous exposure of crystalline rocks of
khondalitic-charnockitic nature is abutting the beach segment of Ovari – Kanya-
kumari. This crystalline shoreline is protected by sandy permeable beaches of vary-
ing width between 30 to 100 m. The monsoonal wave climate sometimes strips off
the sandy beaches, exposing the cliff face to wave attack and erosion. As a result,
erosive features like kettle holes, sea caves and wave cut platforms are well devel-
oped in this crystalline shoreline. The extension of these rock exposures into off-
shore is also observed in certain beaches.
ISSN 0233-7584. Мор. гидрофиз. журн., 2011, № 2 60
4. MORPHODYNAMIC STATE
Morphodynamic states of reflective, dissipative and intermediate beaches of
the study area are assessed on the basis of energy regimes, gradient of the beaches,
beach width, backshore width, wave type, coast exposure and morphological fea-
tures in the nearshore zone.
4.1. Beach morphodynamic condition
The morphodynamic state of the beaches along the Southern Tamilnadu coast
is shown in Fig. 3. A highly complex interaction between natural beach conditions
such as the forcing waves, currents and winds; and the effect of man activities
modify the beach morphology. Improved comprehension of the processes produc-
ing erosion and accretion has been the goal of many oceanographers and marine
geoscientists. However, the relation between cause and effect is often ambiguous.
Beach profile analysis assist us to understand and quantify the discrepancy in
sediment level that are undergoing continuous changes in response to the environ-
mental process variables such as wind, waves, tides etc. Major changes in sand vol-
ume on the beach tend to be systematic and can be related to the character of wave
motion, tidal cycles and currents (Sastry et al., 1979). The beach profile survey also
facilitates us to decipher the longshore and cross-shore sediment movement.
F i g. 3. Morphodynamic state of the beaches along the Southern Tamilnadu coast
4.2. Morphodynamic classification
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Morphodynamic classification of beach types was based on the equations of
Wright & Short, 1984 (Dimensionless fall velocity – Dean Parameter). For equa-
tion Ws = 0.06 was considered for a medium grain size of 0.45 mm in Table 1.
T a b l e 1
Standard limit values for morphodynamic beach types and breaker type
Breaker type
(Battjes, 1974)
Spilling ξb < 0.4 Plunging 0.4 < ξb < 2.0 Surging ξb > 2
Beach type
(Wright & Short, 1984)
Reflective
Ω < 1
Intermediate
1 < Ω < 6
Dissipative
Ω > 6
4.3. Beach profile
Beach profile survey has been carried out using graduated poles and measuring
tape as described by Lafond and Prasada Rao (1954) and Emery (1961). Beach pro-
filing was carried out every month before the full moon day at the time of lowtide
to beyond the low water level as far as wading depth. Beach morphology was
monitored monthly for 24 months and seasonally from April 2005 to March 2007
at 10 locations selected in the study area. Altogether 876 surface samples were col-
lected from dune (if present), backshore (berm), hightide zone (high water line),
midtide zone and lowtide zone (low water line).
F i g. 4. Monthly (a) and seasonal (b) variations in beach profile (some selected areas; X-axis – dis-
tance from the reference point (in m), Y-axis – elevation point (in m); PM – Pre Monsoon, M – Mon-
soon, POM – Post Monsoon)
From the data collected during these surveys, the monthly and seasonal beach
ISSN 0233-7584. Мор. гидрофиз. журн., 2011, № 2 62
profile variations are graphically represented to appreciate the variability in beach
profile configuration (Fig. 4, a, b). From these data, changes in the volume of
sediments are calculated using a computer package to scrutinize the temporal varia-
tion. The study area is characterized by short term features such as transverse bars
as well as long term features such as protuberances due to the presence of those
offshore Islands and submerged sand shoals.
5. WAVE REFRACTION
A study of wave refraction along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari
has been made to investigate the changes that occur in the wave characteristics near
the coast as deep-water waves of different periods approach the coast from various
directions (Fig. 5, a – e). In the present area of investigation, the wave climate is
characterized by the southwest monsoon (June – September), northeast monsoon
(October – January) and non-monsoon periods (February – May). The predominant
wave directions prevailing in the study region are referred in the wave atlas
(Chandramohan et al., 1990) as SE during SW monsoon and NW during the NE
monsoon. As the study area shows a trend of EW – NS orientation, the waves are
approaching the coast predominantly from SE 45° during SW monsoon, NW 20°
during northeast monsoon. Since the orientation of the shoreline along the study
area is in general NS – EW direction, the waves approaching the coast between
N 110° and N 135° are of greatest significance in conjunction with littoral proc-
esses.
F i g. 5. Wave refraction diagram of the study area (see also p. 63 and 64)
ISSN 0233-7584. Мор. гидрофиз. журн., 2011, № 2 63
F i g. 5. Continuation
ISSN 0233-7584. Мор. гидрофиз. журн., 2011, № 2 64
F i g. 5. Ending
Refraction diagrams have therefore been prepared for wave periods of 8 and
10 seconds approaching from N 110° and N 135° by following the Tarangam Pro-
gramme. This programme was developed in the National Institute of Oceanogra-
phy, Goa, on the basis of finite amplitude wave theory for computing the wave
transformation factors (Chandramohan, 1988). The naval hydrographic chart
(1973) was used to assess the water depth at a point for drawing bathymetric con-
tours.
The wave refraction pattern for SE for the periods of 6, 8 and 10 sec are shown
ISSN 0233-7584. Мор. гидрофиз. журн., 2011, № 2 65
in Fig. 5, a – e. The wave energy condition prevailing along the study area in dif-
ferent wave direction for different periods is given in Table 2. In the pattern of
10 sec the wave convergence is noticed at Thiruchendur, Manappad, Periyathalai
and Vattakottai. An overview of refraction patterns of three wave periods reveals
that wave energy is more pronounced and concentrated in wave period of 10 sec
than the other two periods. It is also inferred that wave period of 10 sec plays a
predominant role in the shaping of various landforms of depositional and erosional
nature and in the redistribution of sediments.
T a b l e 2
Wave energy conditions prevailing along the study area
SE NW SSW
Station 6S 8S 10S 8S 10S 8S
OVR I C C I I I
NAV I I I I I I
KUT I C C I I I
IDI I D D D D D
PERU I I I I I I
KUP I I C I I I
VAT I I I I I I
ARO D C C I I D
CHI I C C C D D
KAN I I I I I I
I – Inept Condition, D – Divergence, C – Convergence
N o t e. Here and in Tables 3 – 5: OVR – Ovari, NAV – Navaladi, KUT – Kuttankuli, IDI –
Identhakarai, PERU – Perumanal, KUP – Kuttapuli, VAT – Vattakottai, ARO – Arokiapuram, CHI –
Chinnamuttom, KAN – Kanyakumari.
Rajamanickam et al. (1986), Veerayya and Pankajashan et al. (1988) and Gu-
jar (1996) have indicated from their studies along west coast of India that the pre-
dominant direction of waves in the area are from SW, WSW, W and WNW with
periods ranging from 6 to 10 sec. Anbarasu (1994), Chandrasekar (1992), An-
gusamy et al. (1998), Chandrasekar et al. (2001) have discussed about the wave
refraction pattern and its role in the redistribution of sediments along the east coast
of India.
The overall pattern of wave refraction of the study area of SE direction dis-
plays strong convergence in number of beaches and the same may be ascribed to
the prevalence of high energy conditions unlike the other two directions. It leads to
the inference that sediment transportation and their degree of sorting are likely to
be more intensive in south west monsoon period. The change of wave energy from
convergence to divergence in a particular beach in different period has been attrib-
uted to the change in the quantum of sediment movement from one period to the
other (Hanamgond, 1993).
The nature of cliffed coastline from Kuttankuli to Vattakottai with high order
of erosion indicates a zone of high energy environment. This inference is also sup-
ported by strong convergent zones.
6. LITTORAL SEDIMENT TRANSPORT
ISSN 0233-7584. Мор. гидрофиз. журн., 2011, № 2 66
The movement of material in this zone depends mainly on three factors: the
nature of material available for transport (size and density), orientation and other
features of the coast and the angle of wave approach (Swift, 1976; King, 1972).
Littoral transport plays a major role in the development of certain shoreline fea-
tures like spits and bars, and is causing considerable coastal erosion and accretion
(King, 1974). The monthly longshore sediment transport rates estimated based on
the monthly observations on breaking wave height, surf zone width and the long-
shore currents are presented in the Table 3 – 5. The monthly volume of longshore
sediment transport rates and directions are estimated for the coast at Kuttankuli,
Vattakottai, Thiruchendur, Alanthalai, Manappad, Periyathalai, Ovari and Kanya-
kumari.
T a b l e 3
Monthly data of long shore current (V) along the study area (m/s)
Station A M J J A S O N D J F M
OVR 0.48 0.01 -0.16 -0.01 -0.18 -0.06 -0.36 -0.39 -0.43 -0.09 0.14 0.29
NAV 0.44 0.13 -0.20 -0.32 -0.22 -0.22 -0.30 -0.22 -0.32 -0.16 0.11 0.20
KUT 0.40 0.14 -0.21 -0.33 -0.24 -0.24 -0.30 -0.33 -0.33 -0.10 0.12 0.18
IDI 0.31 -0.10 -0.09 -0.07 -0.21 -0.08 -0.07 -0.01 0.03 -0.11 0.04 0.04
PERU 0.42 0.04 -0.20 -0.13 -0.26 -0.10 -0.29 -0.14 -0.34 -0.06 0.12 0.18
KUP 0.38 0.02 -0.23 -0.20 -0.23 -0.31 -0.26 -0.16 -0.32 -0.04 0.16 0.16
VAT 0.50 0.03 -0.05 -0.10 -0.01 -0.21 -0.31 -0.16 -0.30 -0.08 0.10 0.16
ARO 0.30 0.12 -0.10 -0.06 -0.28 -0.09 -0.07 -0.04 0.06 -0.13 0.06 0.08
CHI 0.39 0.02 -0.07 -0.04 -0.1 -0.07 -0.3 -0.4 0.05 -0.07 0.01 0.16
KAN 0.34 0.14 -0.04 -0.20 -0.07 -0.20 -0.30 -0.15 -0.30 -0.17 0.10 0.16
(-) Northerly direction, (+) Southerly direction
T a b l e 4
Monthly data of breaking wave height (HH) along the study area (m)
Station A M J J A S O N D J F M
OVR 0.50 0.20 0.20 0.50 0.30 0.45 0.70 0.45 0.60 0.45 0.50 0.50
NAV 0.40 0.45 0.30 0.15 0.40 0.30 0.55 0.40 0.35 0.45 0.445 0.60
KUT 0.50 0.50 0.25 0.20 0.20 0.15 0.50 0.20 0.25 0.40 0.55 0.55
IDI 0.40 0.45 0.40 0.25 0.30 0.70 0.30 0.60 0.80 0.30 0.45 0.30
PERU 0.50 0.35 0.15 0.20 0.30 0.20 0.45 0.20 0.55 0.45 0.35 0.45
KUP 0.30 0.40 0.20 0.15 0.25 0.10 0.60 0.30 0.45 0.25 0.40 0.40
VAT 0.25 0.15 0.05 0.25 0.10 0.25 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.05 0.15 0.20
ARO 0.30 0.40 0.25 0.25 0.35 0.60 0.20 0.45 0.60 0.25 0.35 0.20
CHI 0.40 0.20 0.25 0.20 0.25 0.35 0.85 0.50 0.55 0.35 0.55 0.50
KAN 0.20 0.20 0.25 0.20 0.15 0.30 0.35 0.35 0.15 0.25 0.20 0.20
T a b l e 5
ISSN 0233-7584. Мор. гидрофиз. журн., 2011, № 2 67
Monthly data of surf zone width (W) along the study area (m)
Station A M J J A S O N D J F M
OVR 18 20 20 22 15 19 18 17 20 18 20 20
NAV 19 20 16 18 17 20 16 16 20 20 20 20
KUT 18 16 15 15 20 18 17 15 17 15 20 20
IDI 13 12 12 11 12 14 13 12 14 12 12 14
PERU 17 20 15 15 20 18 17 15 17 15 20 20
KUP 20 18 15 16 17 20 18 17 16 18 19 20
VAT 16 14 18 14 14 17 15 14 17 18 16 16
ARO 20 22 20 17 19 20 17 16 18 19 22 22
CHI 17 17 16 18 17 19 20 17 20 18 20 20
KAN 16 14 13 16 15 12 14 15 14 17 18 16
In general, the sediment transport is northerly during March to October and
southerly during November to February. The longshore sediment transport is
higher in the northerly direction as compared to southerly direction at all locations
except Kanyakumari. This occurs because the rocky outcrops shelter the Kanya-
kumari beach and manmade features such as harbour across the surf zone would
act as a barrier and sand would be deposited on the updrift side of such barrier.
7. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The wave refraction analysis has delineated the different wave energy condi-
tions prevailing in the study area. There are areas of erosion and accretion observed
along the coastal stretch which depends primarily the direction of wave approach,
wave period and wave refraction pattern. In the nearshore zone of present study
area, the movement of sand alongshore is due to the action of waves and currents.
A complete study of wave dynamics is imperative at this instant which in-
cludes the measurement across the swash and surf zones of local sediment trans-
port, wave height, wave energy conditions, longshore current etc., to comprehend
and describe the swash processes precisely. Also the time scale of each study
should be commensurate with that of the duration of the directional wave event that
drives the transport. Further, emphasis has to be placed on formulating computer
models to conjecture the performance of sediment movement for the development
and management of coastal zone.
The direction of littoral drift is from south to north during the period of March
to October when the waves are between S and SE and from north to south during
the period November to February when the wave directions are between E and
ENE. The seasonal changes in the direction of littoral drift with the SW and NE
monsoons cause cyclic variations of the beach morphology along the coast under
investigation. The rocky outcrops scattered across the littoral zone cause reversal of
beach cycles at different stations along the coast. For example at Kanyakumari
(October) during SW monsoon, the southerly movement of sediment is observed.
The net littoral drift at all stations is generally from south to north with the excep-
tion of Kanyakumari station, where the net drift is southwards. The net erosive na-
ture of the study area (except Kanyakumari) from March to October is due to the
prevalence of high waves from S and SE directions.
Morphodynamic states of reflective, dissipative and intermediate beaches of
the study area (Table 6) are assessed on the basis of energy regimes, gradient of the
ISSN 0233-7584. Мор. гидрофиз. журн., 2011, № 2 68
beaches, beach width, backshore width, wave type, coast exposure and morpho-
logical features in the nearshore zone.
T a b l e 6
Beach morphodynamic classification along the beaches
between Ovari and Kanyakumari
Spilling ξb < 0.4
Plunging 0.4 < ξb < 2.0
Surging ξb > 2 I. Breaker type (Battjes,
1974)
Locations
Kuttapuli, Vijayapathi,
Arokiapuram
and Vattakottai
Kuttankuli, Chinnamuttom
and Kanyakumari
Ovari and Perumanal
Reflective
Ω < 1
Intermediate
1 < Ω < 6
Dissipative
Ω > 6
II. Beach type (Wright &
Short, 1984)
Locations
Kuttapuli, Vijayapathi,
Arokiapuram
and Vattakottai
Kuttankuli, Chinnamuttom
and Kanyakumari
Ovari and Perumanal
Dissipative beaches. The high wave energy condition with low gradient beach
slope has surf scaling parameter. They have higher rate of dune and backshore re-
cession. Dissipative beaches in the study area are composed of fine to medium sand
and hence the mobility of the beaches is greatly enhanced than the higher energy
conditions of the reflective beaches. Due to the repeated oscillations of high wave
energy condition in the dissipative beaches, scarping of the beach profiles occur.
Beaches falling under this category are Ovari and Perumanal.
Reflective beaches. Low modal wave heights and steep gradients of the beach
have resulted in low surf scaling parameter. However, if the wave height increases
seasonally, the beaches in these environments would be severely affected by the
erosional processes. The same is attested by the present study during the northeast
monsoon and the erosion sensitive concave beach profiles dominate over convex
profiles. The mobility of the beaches is hindered by the coarseness of the sedi-
ments, low energy condition and steep beach gradients. Beaches like Kuttapuli,
Vijayapathi, Arokiapuram and Vattakottai fall under this category.
Intermediate beaches. Intermediate domains exhibit the characters of both re-
flective and dissipative beaches. Moderate gradient and abundant supply of sedi-
ments are seen more with dominant alongshore movement than with onshore-
offshore movement. Broad backshore width is noticed in the intermediate state of
beaches in Perumanal and Vijayapathi coast. Flat and moderate beach gradient with
strong rip current and well developed cusps that disappear as the reflective shore-
line conditions dominate over the intermediate state are perceptible in the zeta form
bay between Kuttapuli and Arokiapuram. The gradients of the beaches which are
gentle with low energy conditions are seen in Ovari coast. Along with other modes
of beach cuttings, rip currents developed in this coast caused the continual erosion.
Along the study area such as Kuttankuli, Chinnamuttom and Kanyakumari belong
to this category.
8. CONCLUSION
The morphodynamic behaviour of the beaches has been identified in the
beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari area. The different morphologies of ap-
ISSN 0233-7584. Мор. гидрофиз. журн., 2011, № 2 69
pearance on the beaches show that the morphodynamic behaviour also has a direct
influence on the wave refraction, with the mechanical processes of wave. The mor-
phodynamic behaviour of the beaches is presented as a determinant factor which
should be incorporated into the coastal recovery, in order to estimate the time of
recovery of the sandy beaches and the effectiveness of the clearing methods in the
most precise way. However, within the proposed model, and from the existing data,
it is not possible to determine the time scale of these processes, nor the influence
that the possible contributions of wave from the continental shelf would have on
this natural process of sediment regeneration.
Clearly, regardless of the wave-climate strength, the nearshore zone of the
coast is constantly modified, which requires the use of observation and interpreta-
tion tools with high acquisition frequencies. The complementary data provided will
enable the precise determination of the energy and temporal scales to which the
coastal dynamics are sensitive (for instance, the wave-action duration involving
morphological changes in the intertidal domain). Also, they will allow more pre-
cise calculations of the sand-transport rate due to littoral drift. Finally, with the aim
of simulating coastline morphodynamics, it will be necessary to better define the
wave-height threshold beyond which the ridge morphology is modified. To con-
clude this paper, we must note that cross-shore morphodynamics need to be studied
in order to complete the analysis of the morphodynamics of coast. In addition, the
interaction between the systems must be intensively investigated.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The authors are thankful to Dr. Bhoop Singh, Director, NRDMS, Department
of Science and Technology, New Delhi for his kind help in preparing the manu-
script. The authors are thankful to Department of Science and Technology, New
Delhi for providing the financial assistance under NRDMS Scheme
(ES/11/526/2000).
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E-mail: geosaravanan2000@yahoo.co.in
АННОТАЦИЯ Морфология берега отражает взаимное влияние топографии и динамики
жидкости. При этом морфологическое строение береговых систем не является случайным, а
определяется распределением и пространственно-временным взаимодействием береговых
форм. Начиная с классификации, предложенной Райтом и Шортом (1983), основанной на ана-
лизе эволюции нескольких участков пляжа Южного берега Тамилнаду, пляжные системы рас-
сматриваются в рамках трехмерных морфодинамических моделей, включающих количест-
венные характеристики (высоту обрушения волн, скорость образования осадков, волновой
период и уклон пляжа) и граничные условия для определенных взаимосвязей береговой дина-
мики (т. е. наличие или отсутствие баров и их тип). Это привело к подразделению пляжей на
три основные категории в соответствии с их поведением по отношению к внешним силам
(Шорт, 1999) – рассеивающие, промежуточные (от промежуточно-рассеивающих до промежу-
точно-отражающих вариантов) и отражающие. Морфодинамическая классификация типов пля-
жей основана на уравнениях Райта и Шорта, 1984 (безразмерная скорость осадкообразования
– параметр Дина).
Ключевые слова: пляж, уравнения Райта и Шорта, волны, морфодинамика, Индия.
АНОТАЦІЯ Морфологія берега відображає взаємний вплив топографії та динаміки рідини.
При цьому морфологічна будова берегових систем не є випадковою, а визначається розподі-
лом і просторово-часовою взаємодією берегових форм. Починаючи з класифікації, запропоно-
ваної Райтом та Шортом (1983), заснованої на аналізі еволюції декількох ділянок пляжу Пів-
денного берега Тамілнаду, пляжні системи розглядаються в рамках тривимірних морфодина-
мічних моделей, які включають кількісні характеристики (висоту обвалення хвиль, швидкість
утворення опадів, хвильовий період та ухил пляжу) та граничні умови для певних взаємозв'яз-
ків берегової динаміки (тобто наявність або відсутність барів і їх тип). Це призвело до підроз-
ділу пляжів на три основні категорії відповідно до їхньої поведінки відносно фізичних сил
(Шорт, 1999) – розсіюючі, проміжні (від проміжно-розсіюючих до проміжно-відбиваючих ва-
ріантів) і відбиваючі. Морфодинамічна класифікація типів пляжів заснована на рівнянні Райта
та Шорта, 1984 (безрозмірна швидкість осадоутворювання – параметр Діна).
Ключові слова: пляж, рівняння Райта та Шорта, хвилi, морфодинаміка, Індія.
|
| id | nasplib_isofts_kiev_ua-123456789-56685 |
| institution | Digital Library of Periodicals of National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine |
| issn | 0233-7584 |
| language | English |
| last_indexed | 2025-12-07T18:45:09Z |
| publishDate | 2011 |
| publisher | Морський гідрофізичний інститут НАН України |
| record_format | dspace |
| spelling | Saravanan, S. Chandrasekar, N. Sheik Mujabar, P. Hentry, C. 2014-02-22T10:43:34Z 2014-02-22T10:43:34Z 2011 An overview of beach morphodynamic classification along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari, Southern Tamilnadu coast, India / S. Saravanan, N. Chandrasekar, P. Sheik Mujabar, C. Hentry // Морской гидрофизический журнал. — 2011. — № 2. — С. 57-71. — Бібліогр.: 31 назв. — рос. 0233-7584 https://nasplib.isofts.kiev.ua/handle/123456789/56685 551.468.1 Beach morphology relates the mutual adjustment between topography and fluid dynamics. The morphological makeup of beach systems is not accidental because the arrangement and association of forms occur in an organized contextual space and time. Since the classification derived by Wright and Short (1983) obtained from the analysis of the evolution in a number of Southern Tamilnadu beach sites, beach systems are comprehended in terms of three-dimensional morphodynamic models that include quantitative parameters (wave breaking height, sediment fall velocity, wave period and beach slope) and boundary conditions for definable form-processes association (e.g. presence or absence of bars as well as its type). This has lead to the classification of beaches into three main categories relating the beach state observations with the physical forcing (Short, 1999) dissipative, intermediate (from the intermediate-dissipative domain to the intermediate-reflective domain) and reflective modes. Morphodynamic classification of beach types was based on the equations of Wright & Short (1984) (Dimensionless fall velocity – Dean Parameter). Морфология берега отражает взаимное влияние топографии и динамики жидкости. При этом морфологическое строение береговых систем не является случайным, а определяется распределением и пространственно-временным взаимодействием береговых форм. Начиная с классификации, предложенной Райтом и Шортом (1983), основанной на анализе эволюции нескольких участков пляжа Южного берега Тамилнаду, пляжные системы рассматриваются в рамках трехмерных морфодинамических моделей, включающих количественные характеристики (высоту обрушения волн, скорость образования осадков, волновой период и уклон пляжа) и граничные условия для определенных взаимосвязей береговой динамики (т. е. наличие или отсутствие баров и их тип). Это привело к подразделению пляжей на три основные категории в соответствии с их поведением по отношению к внешним силам (Шорт, 1999) – рассеивающие, промежуточные (от промежуточно-рассеивающих до промежуточно-отражающих вариантов) и отражающие. Морфодинамическая классификация типов пляжей основана на уравнениях Райта и Шорта, 1984 (безразмерная скорость осадкообразования – параметр Дина). Морфологія берега відображає взаємний вплив топографії та динаміки рідини. При цьому морфологічна будова берегових систем не є випадковою, а визначається розподілом і просторово-часовою взаємодією берегових форм. Починаючи з класифікації, запропонованої Райтом та Шортом (1983), заснованої на аналізі еволюції декількох ділянок пляжу Південного берега Тамілнаду, пляжні системи розглядаються в рамках тривимірних морфодинамічних моделей, які включають кількісні характеристики (висоту обвалення хвиль, швидкість утворення опадів, хвильовий період та ухил пляжу) та граничні умови для певних взаємозв'язків берегової динаміки (тобто наявність або відсутність барів і їх тип). Це призвело до підрозділу пляжів на три основні категорії відповідно до їхньої поведінки відносно фізичних сил (Шорт, 1999) – розсіюючі, проміжні (від проміжно-розсіюючих до проміжно-відбиваючих варіантів) і відбиваючі. Морфодинамічна класифікація типів пляжів заснована на рівнянні Райта та Шорта, 1984 (безрозмірна швидкість осадоутворювання – параметр Діна). The authors are thankful to Dr. Bhoop Singh, Director, NRDMS, Department of Science and Technology, New Delhi for his kind help in preparing the manuscript. The authors are thankful to Department of Science and Technology, New Delhi for providing the financial assistance under NRDMS Scheme (ES/11/526/2000). en Морський гідрофізичний інститут НАН України Морской гидрофизический журнал Экспериментальные и экспедиционные исследования An overview of beach morphodynamic classification along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari, Southern Tamilnadu coast, India Article published earlier |
| spellingShingle | An overview of beach morphodynamic classification along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari, Southern Tamilnadu coast, India Saravanan, S. Chandrasekar, N. Sheik Mujabar, P. Hentry, C. Экспериментальные и экспедиционные исследования |
| title | An overview of beach morphodynamic classification along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari, Southern Tamilnadu coast, India |
| title_full | An overview of beach morphodynamic classification along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari, Southern Tamilnadu coast, India |
| title_fullStr | An overview of beach morphodynamic classification along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari, Southern Tamilnadu coast, India |
| title_full_unstemmed | An overview of beach morphodynamic classification along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari, Southern Tamilnadu coast, India |
| title_short | An overview of beach morphodynamic classification along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari, Southern Tamilnadu coast, India |
| title_sort | overview of beach morphodynamic classification along the beaches between ovari and kanyakumari, southern tamilnadu coast, india |
| topic | Экспериментальные и экспедиционные исследования |
| topic_facet | Экспериментальные и экспедиционные исследования |
| url | https://nasplib.isofts.kiev.ua/handle/123456789/56685 |
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